Wine
If there is a long suit in Italian wines, it is their very functionality. As we try to look into the future of California wine, we have a strong suspicion that our longstanding love affair with the “classic” French varietals will gradually yield some ground to wines that simply work better on the dinner table.
A welcome first step in that direction was seen in the Rhone Ranger movement of the early 1990s. To be sure, the movement centered on Syrah, a “classic” French varietal. But one of the legacies of this renewed interest in Rhône wines was the widespread acceptance of Rhône varietal blends which carried no varietal label — the Côtes-du-Rhône and Châteauneuf-du-Pape analogs such as Eberle’s Côtes-du Rôbles, Preston’s Faux,and Zaca Mesa’s Cuvee Z. California Rhône blends enjoy continuing success, as well they deserve; but the welcome approach of Italian styled wines looms on the horizon.
One Italian varietal has been widely available throughout California since the 1960s — Barbera. This most widely planted red grape varietal in northern Italy had been a mainstay of our Italian immigrants; their requirements were serviced by two of our most distinguished wineries of that period: Sebastiani and Louis M. Martini. These wines, made from Sonoma County fruit, enjoyed a loyal following through the 60s, 70s and 80s. They were simple, well made, good-tasting, inexpensive wines. But to those willing to venture beyond the more familiar Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, and Pinot Noir, they lacked both the depth and complexity that had become the hallmark of fine wine.
Our tasting panel revisited the Louis M. Martini Lake County Barbera in its 1995 rendition. The alcohol level had crept up just a bit (13.5%), as had its price ($17). But the wine was remarkably similar to its antecedents, if our memory holds correctly. Slightly fuller of body, but still possessing dark, homogeneous fruity flavors, bright acids, and a tannin level a bit higher than one might expect from a Barbera. This, we thought, is the California Barbera of yesteryear — before the discovery of optimal vineyard sites, clonal research, and before California winemakers began to look to definitive Piemontese examples for stylistic models.
First, it’s around 13% alcohol. Lovely examples can be found at 12 or even 11%! Barbera is typically low in tannin, bright in acid, and medium in body and color. These qualities make it a leading contender for the dinner table right out of the starting gate. Typical descriptors include bright cherry, raspberry, and spice, rather than the blackberry and plum of Cabernet Sauvignon or the ripe cherry of Pinot Noir.
We are beginning to experience a groundswell of interest in Italian varietals in California. It’s been gestating for decades, but early attempts languished because few worthwhile efforts came to notice, and because consumer palates were not yet ready to be wrested away from the thick, sumptuous, sweet edged wines they had come to love.
A definitive, traditional Barbera from Alba: 1997 Piero Busso Vigna Majano Barbera d’Alba DOC, 13%, $18.99
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN STYLED BARBERA
It would be easier to develop an Italian styled California Barbera if our model were not such a moving target. The fact is, many Italian wineries have become seduced by California models. Italian Barberas are now all over the map, ranging from traditional models to thick, rich, high-alcohol versions. The California notion that bigger is better has taken on international dimensions.
Tired of wines which compete with food instead of complementing it? Tire the palate instead of excite it? Disappointed by the seemingly inverse relationship between a wine’s published rating and its suitability for the dinner table? We think many of you are. Wine critics aside, most of us are looking for table wines which are delicious to drink, but which don’t necessarily upstage thoughtfully prepared foods. We want to find wines which are functional.
THE ROLE OF ALCOHOL
From a consumer’s point of view, the alcohol level is possibly the most important indicator of the style of a wine. Alcohol is derived from sugars which, in turn, depend upon the ripeness of the fruit. Riper fruit leads to more concentrated flavors and higher alcohol levels when fermented to dryness. High alcohol wines are mouth-filling, viscous and rich in contrast to the palate-cleansing effect of moderate alcohol wines.
HOW DO CALIFORNIA BARBERAS COMPARE TO ITALIAN?
We have great news for you. Barbera is coming of age in California and we found many truly splendid examples. But there is a stylistic dichotomy afoot. If you follow published ratings, you will find yourself in the company of richly flavored, high alcohol, almost over-the-top examples. Our panel loved them. But they were equally attracted to what appears to be a new breed of California Barbera — one which follows the traditional Piemontese model much more closely.
An everyday, traditional Barbera from Alba: 1995 Sigillo dell’Abate Barbera d’Alba DOC, 13%, $7.99
In order to report on the state of Barbera in California, our tasting panel started with two Italian models:
The defining characteristics of the Barbera varietal were very much in evidence in these wines. The Piero Busso example was particularly well balanced, with clearly definable, delicious, clean flavors which complemented the wide spectrum of Italian foods present at the tasting. But even the inexpensive Sigillo dell’Abate won many converts to traditionally styled Barbera as tasters discovered how beautifully these wines complemented bruschetta, various Piemontese antipasti, lasagne, and scalloppini.
Our second article in this series will consist of descriptions and reviews of what we found to be the best of both worlds: rich and seductive Barberas; and some of the best dinner wines you could possibly find this side of Turin.